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El Picante Brings Its Take on Classic Mexican Fare to La Grange

Restaurant's appealing food, atmosphere and reasonable prices draw in diners, who may suspect (correctly) the owner/head chef looks familiar.

La Grange’s reputation as a vibrant restaurant town got another shot in the arm with the opening earlier this year of El Picante Mexican Grill at 50 S. LaGrange Road.

Though the place is new, chef-owner Tony Soto has worked in foodservice for some two decades and is a familiar face on the local dining scene. He is most recently known for his work with Latin-inspired tapas at Mambo Room Bar & Grill.

When it comes to traditional Mexican favorites, El Picante covers the bases, offering tacos, burritos and tortas starring chicken, pork, beef and fish. Chile relleno—lightly battered and fried poblano pepper stuffed with cheese and served in a red sauce with rice and beans—is a specialty, as are various enchilada preparations.        
   
While the menu can’t be called cutting edge, its straightforward dishes have an authenticity that appeals to diners. “Customers have been telling me that the food we serve is close to what they have tried when traveling in Mexico,” said Soto, who was born in Guanajuato, Mexico and still uses recipes learned from his mother.

Diners also enjoy the friendly service and reasonable prices. Appetizers are in the $5-$7 range, dinner $8-$18 and made-in-house desserts, $4-$5. The casual storefront restaurant, charmingly decorated with copies of colorful Diego Rivera paintings, can accommodate about 70 and more at outdoor tables once the weather becomes more amenable. Recorded music, mostly Mexican in origin, adds to the ambience.

El Picante occupies space that previously was home to , which is run by Soto’s wife, Thipi, who relocated her popular eatery a block and a half away to 25 W. Calendar Ave., a larger venue where the now-closed Mambo Room was based.
   
At El Picante, dinner starts with complimentary corn chips and a mildly spicy tomato-based salsa while reviewing the drinks list. Resident mixologist Sergio Ramos, who doubles as a server, whips up a creditable margarita that strikes just the right balance between tequila, triple sec and lime juice. The bar also stocks assorted Mexican beers, including the often hard-to-find Victoria. And, depending on the night of one’s visit, look for specials on sangria, margaritas, wine or beer.

Ceviche, a popular appetizer, featured diced shrimp, onion, jalapeno, tomato and cilantro—all flavorfully marinated in lime juice and served in a cocktail glass. Among other starters available were quesadilla, guacamole, chicken taquitos and queso fundido, (melted cheese mixed with chorizo or roasted onion strips.)
               
Diners partial to mole will find two choices listed among the chef’s specials. One with tender and succulent boneless roast duck meat came topped with a mild citrus mole and accompanied by rice. “Muy bueno” are the two words that best describe this flavorful entree. Also very good was a tablemate’s similar dish prepared with salmon and a fruity mole, although the fish itself could have done with less time on the stove.

Dessert choices don’t break any new ground, but the flan napolitano came as a pleasant surprise. A true classic, this dense, moderately sweet vanilla custard with its vanilla-rum sauce turned out to be the perfect way to cap dinner.

El Picante is open Sunday to Thursday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m.-11 p.m; elpicantemexicangrill.com; 708-352-2064.

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